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Term
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Definition
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Ø DATA CLEAN UP
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User command that removes excess Ø-Data stitches when storing a
pattern to floppy disk.
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A - Top
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ANGLE
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Editing function to rotate the pattern in a counterclockwise
direction. Angle can be programmed in 1 degree increments up to 359.
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APPLIQUÉ
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Decoration or trimming cut from one piece of fabric and stitched to
another, usually with a satin stitch around the edge. Adds dimension
and/or texture to a design.
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AUTO BACK COUNT
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User Parameter that programs number of stitches the machine will
back up at a thread break.
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AUTO JUMP DATA
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User Parameter that programs the maximum stitch length that the
machine will sew in a single head revolution.
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AUTO ORIGIN RETURN
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Sewing control that returns the pantograph to the start point of a
pattern when it has completed sewing.
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AUTOMAT
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Traditional name for the computer that controls the embroidery
machine. Machine control buttons are located here.
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AUTOMEND
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Sewing function that backs up through the pattern to correct a
thread break. This function is equivalent to "StitchBack".
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B - Top
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BACKING
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Woven or non-woven material used underneath the item or fabric being
embroidered. Provides support and stability. Available in two basic
types - cutaway and tearaway. Also known as stabilizer in the home
embroidery market.
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BATTERY BACK-UP
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System that provides power to preserve stitch memory and pantograph
position in case of machine power loss.
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BEAN STITCH
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Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used
for outlining.
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BIRDNESTING
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Collection of thread between the embroidered goods and the throat
plate, resembling a bird's nest. Caused by improper stitch
formation.
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BOBBIN
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Round assembly that holds the lower thread. The bobbin thread
combines with the top thread to form a stitch.
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BOBBIN CASE
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Case that houses the bobbin and fastens it into the hook assembly.
It also allows for tensioning of the bobbin thread.
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BOBBIN THREAD
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Thread that is interlocked with the top thread to form a stitch.
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C - Top
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CAP FRAME
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The hardware used to embroider finished caps. Includes the cap frame
drive unit, the framing device and the actual cap frame.
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CHECK SPRING
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Small spring located on the tension assembly, coiled around with a
horseshoe-type loop at the end, also known as the take-up spring.
Used to take up the slack of the thread as the machine is sewing.
Works with the thread break detector to determine thread breaks.
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CODE
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The format under which pattern information is stored on paper tape.
When a pattern is transferred to memory from paper tape, you must
indicate the tape code.
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COLOR CHANGE
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Code embedded in a design that tells the machine to change to a
different needle, to sew with a different color thread.
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CUTAWAY BACKING
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Woven or non-woven material placed under the fabric being
embroidered to add stability. Must be cut away after sewing. Cutaway
is typically used on less stable, stretchy fabrics such as knits.
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D - Top
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DESIGN
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Stitches that compose a pattern or monogram.
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DESIGN ORIGIN
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The starting point of the design- the position of the pantograph
when the Start button is first pressed.
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DIGITIZE
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The computerized method of converting art work into a series of
commands to be read by an embroidery machine.
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DISPOSITION
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Monogram parameter to select one of five letter arrangements.
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DRIVE KEY
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Used to complete a mode operation, such as Delete or Chain.
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E - Top
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EDIT
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Process of permanently changing a pattern by scaling or angling the
pattern or adding, changing or deleting function codes.
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EMBLEM
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Embroidered design with a finished edge, commonly an insignia. Also
known as a crest or patch.
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EMERGENCY STOP BUTTON
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The large red button or buttons located on the front of the Barudan
machine. When pressed, removes all power from the machine
immediately.
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EMBROIDERY
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Decorative stitching on fabric. Generally involves designs, but can
also include lettering or monogramming.
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EYE
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The circular opening in a needle that carries the top thread through
the fabric and into the bobbin assembly.
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F - Top
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FACING
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See "topping."
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FILL STITCH
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Series of running stitches commonly used to cover large areas.
Different fill patterns can be created by varying the length, angle
or repeating sequence of the stitches.
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FIX PATTERN TYPE
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Thread Cut parameter that compensates for patterns punched for
machines without automatic thread trimmers.
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FLAGGING
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Up and down motion of the goods being embroidered caused by the
presser foot action. So named because of its resemblance to a waving
flag. Often caused by improper framing of goods. Flagging may result
in poor design registration, poor stitch formation and bird-nesting.
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FLOAT
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Machine function that traces through the design, stitch by stitch,
without sewing- used for mending.
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FLOPPY DISK
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Media for permanent pattern storage. Barudan machines use either
double-density or high-density 3.5" disks.
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FLOPPY DISK DRIVE
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Located in the right side of the automat. Provides a means of design
storage and retrieval from a floppy disk.
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FORMAT
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Computer language a particular 3.5" disk will use. The
formatting of disks varies between machine manufacturers.
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FRAME
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Holding device for goods to be embroidered. Ensures stability of the
goods during the sewing process. See also hoop.
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FRAME MOVE DATA
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Thread Cut parameter that sets the amount of pantograph movement
after a thread trim.
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FUNCTION CODE
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Special commands within an embroidery design which instruct specific
action on the machine. These include jump stitches, thread trims and
color changes. This information is attached to a specific stitch of
the design.
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G - Top
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GROOVE
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The channel on the front of the needle that provides a place for the
thread to sit when the needle penetrates the material, so that the
loop will form behind the needle.
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H - Top
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HEAD SHUT-OFF
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Switch located on the side of the Barudan sewing head, mechanically
disengages the sewing head from the drive shaft. Used primarily on
multi-head machines.
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HOOK ASSEMBLY
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A rotating assembly that grabs the top thread off the needle and
loops it around the bobbin, thus forming a stitch. Consists of two
interlocking pieces, one is called the basket, which remains
stationary and houses the bobbin case and bobbin. The other is the
hook, which rotates while the machine is sewing.
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HOOK POINT
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The sharp, pointed tip on the hook assembly which grabs the loop of
the thread behind the needle to form a stitch.
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HOOK RACE
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An internal part of the hook. A channel that allows the hook to spin
around the hook basket.
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HOOK TIMING
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Proper positioning of the hook assembly in relation to the needle in
forming a stitch.
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HOOP
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Device made from plastic, metal or wood that grips the fabric
tightly between an inner and outer ring and attaches it to the
machine pantograph. Also referred to as a frame.
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HOOPING BOARD
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Device that aids in hooping/framing garments or items for
embroidery. Helps ensure uniform placement of the hoop onto the
material.
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HORIZONTAL
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Refers to front to back movement of the pantograph on the machine.
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I - Top
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ICON
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Pictorial representation of an option available from a menu on the
machine screen.
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INITIALIZE
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Process of formatting a new floppy disk.
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J - Top
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JOG KEYS
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Four arrow keys on the Barudan automat that move the pantograph
vertically and horizontally.
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JUMP JOG
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Movement programmed between patterns that are chained. Moves the
pantograph to position the patterns vertically or horizontally,
without allowing the machine to stitch.
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JUMP STITCH
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Movement of the pantograph and rotation of the sewing head without
the needle going down. Used to move from one point in a design to
another or to create stitches that are longer than the machine would
normally allow.
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K - Top
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KEYBOARD
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Assembly with typewriter style keys that allow the operator to
control and load information into the computer.
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L - Top
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LETTERING
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Embroidery using letters or words. Often called keyboard lettering.
Usually computer generated either on the machine or a stand-alone
computer.
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LIQUID CRYSTAL DISPLAY
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Located in the front of the automat. Shows information about the
pattern and menu selections.
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LOCK STITCH
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Commonly refers to a series of three to four very small stitches
(1mm or less) either just before a trim or at the beginning of
sewing following a thread trim. Used to prevent the stitching from
unraveling after the embroidery is completed.
The type of stitch used on most computerized embroidery machines
(as well as home sewing machines) involving a needle, a hook and
bobbin thread.
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LOCK STITCH TYPE
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Thread Cut parameter that inserts lock stitches before/after thread
trims and determines the pattern of the lock stitch.
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LOOP
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Used to describe the loop of top thread that forms behind the needle
when the needle has gone all the way down and just starts to rise.
The hook grabs this loop to form a stitch.
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LOOPING
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The appearance of embroidery when the stitches are too loose.
Usually caused by insufficient tensioning.
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LOW SPEED FUNCTION
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User Parameter that sets the machine to run at a lower speed than
that set by the speed control knob.
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LOWER TENSIONER
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Set of tension disks for each needle on the machine located between
the primary tensioner and the take up lever. Has a rotating disk and
holds the check spring. Used for controlling thread flow. See also
tensioner.
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M - Top
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MIRROR
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A program menu option that allows reverse imaging of a pattern to be
sewn. See also Rotate Pattern.
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MODE KEY
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Selects one of the various memory operation modes.
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MONOGRAM
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Embroidered design composed of one or more letters, usually the name
or initials of someone's name.
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N - Top
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NEEDLE
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Small, slender piece of steel that penetrates the fabric, carrying
the thread through into the hook assembly. The needle has an eye for
carrying the thread, a groove for holding the top thread as the
fabric is pierced and a scarf to allow free passage of the hook
point.
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NEEDLE BAR
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Metal rod that holds the needle so that it can be driven up and
down.
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NUMERIC KEYS
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Number keys on the keyboard, used to select values.
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O - Top
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ORIGIN
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The start point, or beginning, of a pattern.
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ORIGIN KEY
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Located in the center of the Jog keys. Returns the pantograph to the
start (origin) position of the design the last time it was sewn.
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P - Top
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PANTOGRAPH
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The assembly on top of the table which moves the hoop left to right
and front to back.
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PANTOGRAPH POSITIONING
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Using the jog keys to move the frame to the desired location.
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PAPER TAPE
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Pattern storage media, a continuous reel of perforated paper. The
perforations contain the pattern information in coded format.
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PATTERN
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The sequence of stitches that make up a design or monogram.
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POSITION FINGER
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Small black retainer sitting directly in front of the hook assembly.
The position finger keeps the basket of the hook assembly from
turning. It also maintains a small gap that allows the bobbin thread
to pass through.
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POWER ON BUTTON
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Turns the machine on when pressed.
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POWER SOURCE SWITCH
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Turns power on/off for entire machine.
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PRESSER BAR
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The bar to which the presser foot is attached. The presser bar moves
with the other internal parts of the sewing head, which allows the
presser foot to jump with the motion of sewing.
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PRESSER FOOT
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A metal ring around the needle that moves with the needle bar and
holds the fabric down while the needle penetrates it. Aids in loop
formation.
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PRETENSIONER DISKS
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Set of tension disks for each needle on the machine. Located on the
thread stand of the machine. Controls the flow of thread from the
cone to the primary tensioner. See also tensioner.
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PRIMARY TENSIONER
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Set of tension disks for each needle on the machine. Located between
the pre-tensioner and the lower tensioner. Controls the tautness of
the thread for variations in fabrics and thread types. See also
tensioner.
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PROGRAM
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Under the Memory menu, parameters that allow the alteration of the
appearance and orientation of the design.
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PUCKERING
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Result of the fabric being gathered by the stitches. Causes include
loose hooping, insufficient backing or incorrect thread tension.
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PUSH AND PULL COMPENSATION
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Digitizing technique that takes into account the distortion of the
design that will occur because of the interaction of the thread with
the material. This can cause a perfect circle to appear egg shaped
when sewn out. Generally, it is necessary to extend horizontal
elements and reduce vertical elements.
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Q - Top
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QUEUING
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Term used to describe machine's ability to program the next monogram
while current one is sewing.
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R - Top
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REGISTRATION
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Correct registration is achieved when all stitches and design
elements line up correctly.
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ROTATE PATTERN
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Program parameter that rotates the design in 90 degree increments
counterclockwise, with or without mirror imaging the design.
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RUNNING STITCH
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A single stitch between two points used for final detail, outlining
and underlay. Also known as a walk stitch.
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S - Top
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SATIN STITCH
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Formed by closely arranged zigzag stitches such as a column. Can be
laid down at any angle and with varying stitch lengths. Used mostly
for lettering and outlining designs.
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SCALE
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Program parameter used to expand or condense the size of the design
without changing the number of stitches. A separate scale parameter
is used for each direction.
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SCARF
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A notch or cutout located on the back of the needle allowing the
point of the hook to get close enough to the needle to grab the
thread.
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SHIFT KEY
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Used in monogram programming to select lower case letters and
punctuation.
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SLOW UP
COUNT
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User parameter to program the number of stitches the machine will
sew at a slower speed before accelerating to normal speed.
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SPEED CONTROL
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Knob that adjusts the sewing speed of the machine.
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SPEED INDICATOR
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Portion of the memory display that indicates the current sewing
speed in RPM (stitches per minute).
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STABILIZER
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See "Backing."
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START KEY
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Used to start the machine stitching.
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STITCHBACK
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Sewing function that traces back through a design. Used to repair
skipped stitches.
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STITCH EDITING
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A computer function allowing one or more stitches in a pattern to be
altered or deleted.
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STITCH FORMATION
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The process of making one complete stitch. The eye of the needle
carries the top thread through the fabric, as the needle reaches its
lowest point and begins to rise, a loop is formed behind the needle.
As the needle rises, the point of the hook approaches and grabs the
loop off of the needle. The thread is then carried around the bobbin
by the hook, twisting it around the bobbin thread. The take up lever
then pulls the thread up pulling the stitch tight.
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STITCH JOG
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Patterns can be combined in chain with movement between them. Stitch
Jog tacks down stitches as the pantograph moves to the proper
position for the next pattern to begin.
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STITCH SELECTION
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Sewing function that moves the pantograph to a specific stitch
number.
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STOP KEY
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Used to stop the machine while sewing.
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T - Top
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TACKLE TWILL
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Letters or numbers cut from polyester or rayon twill fabric,
commonly used for athletic teams and organizations. Tackle Twill
appliqués attached to a garment typically have an adhesive backing
that tacks them in place; the edges of the appliqués are then sewn
to the garment with a zig-zag stitch.
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TAKE-UP LEVER
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Pulls the thread through the fabric after the stitch has been made,
controlling the flow of thread during stitch formation.
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TAKE-UP SPRING
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Small spring located on the tension assembly, coiled around with a
horseshoe shaped loop at the end. Used to pick up the slack of the
thread as the machine is sewing. Works with the thread break
detector to determine thread breaks. Also called a check spring.
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TATAMI STITCH
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Series of running stitches commonly used to cover large areas.
Different fill patterns can be created by varying the length, angle
or repeating sequence of the stitches. See also fill stitch.
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TEACHING
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Machine menu that modifies the color sequence in a design; actually
changing the function code that is embedded in the design.
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TEARAWAY BACKING
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A non-woven material placed under the fabric being embroidered to
add stability to the fabric. Can be torn away after stitching.
Typically used on more stable fabrics such as woven goods.
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TENSION
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Tautness of the thread used to form stitches. Top thread tension as
well as bobbin thread tension need to be correctly set for proper
stitch formation and for good appearance of the embroidery. Proper
tension is typically achieved when there is one-third bobbin and
two-thirds top thread showing on the underside of the material when
using satin stitching.
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TENSIONER
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A device used to apply pressure directly to the thread in order to
control the tension being applied to the thread. Usually consists of
a post, a tension knob, tension spring and two tension disks, which
when the thread is placed between applies pressure to the thread.
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THREAD
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Fine cord of natural or synthetic fibers made of two or more
filaments twisted together and used for stitching. Embroidery
threads are available in rayon, polyester, cotton, acrylic or
metallic.
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THREAD BREAK DETECTOR
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Device that detects thread breakage, stopping the machine
automatically to allow the operator to rethread the needle.
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THREAD BREAK INDICATOR
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Small light on the front of the sewing head that flashes when a
thread break has been detected.
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THREAD CHECK COUNT
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User parameter that programs how quickly the machine responds to a
thread break.
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THREAD CLIPPERS
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Small spring loaded scissors designed to be operated with just the
thumb and forefinger. Used to clip thread.
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THREAD CUT JOB
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Thread Cut parameter that sets the thread trimmer program.
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THREAD JUMP COUNT
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Thread Cut parameter that controls the number of jump stitches above
which the thread trimmer will cut the thread.
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THREAD KEEP

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Pin that secures the thread. When a needle is selected, the pin
moves out of the way for the thread to move freely.
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THREAD STAND
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Platform of spindles on top of the sewing head that holds the cones
of thread.
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TOP THREAD
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Sewn thread that shows on the top of the fabric.
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TOP THREAD TENSIONERS
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Applies the correct amount of pressure on the top thread so that the
take-up spring responds in a manner that allows a stitch to be
properly formed.
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TOPPING
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Material hooped or placed on top of materials with a definable nap
or surface texture, such as corduroy or terry cloth, prior to
embroidery. It creates a smooth surface so that the stitching can be
laid down. Most facings are made of a water-soluble plastic. Also
called facing.
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TUBULAR FRAMING
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The framing system on an embroidery machine that allows tubular
goods to be hooped and attached to the machine.
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TUBULAR GOODS
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Usually refers to finished goods such as sweatshirts and Tees. These
goods, in order to be embroidered, need to around the sewing arm
like a tube as not to sew the back of the garment to the front.
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U - Top
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UNDERLAY STITCH
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Stitches in a design that are put down before the design stitches,
used to stabilize the fabric or raise the design so that the fine
detailing is not lost.
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UTSM

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Under Thread Stop Motion. Sensor that determines if the bobbin
thread is broken by detecting if the top thread stops flowing.
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V - Top
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VERTICAL
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Refers to side to side movement of the pantograph on the machine.
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W - Top
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WALK STITCH
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See "Running Stitch."
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Z - Top
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ZIGZAG STITCH
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Stitches that go from one side of an area to be sewn, diagonally to
the other side. Diagonals may be placed closely together to form a
satin stitch.
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