How do I tell if my tension is correct?

First look at the top side of the fabric. Are the stitches laying flat? Is there bobbin pulled up to the top?

If the top side of the embroidery looks good, usually there are no adjustments necessary.

If the stitching looks loose or loopy, the top thread may need to be tightened for that particular color.

If bobbin is being pulled up from the underside then either the top tensioning is too tight, or the bobbin tension is too loose.

If the top stitching is pulling the fabric so that it puckers, then the tension may need to be loosened for that color.

<back to top>

How do I adjust my tension?

For machines with 9 needles or less:

There are three tensioners for the top thread:

The upper, center, and the lower (or rotary) tensioner.

Most adjustments are done with the upper and/or center tensioners. The general rule is; what you do to the upper, you should do to the center, as you want a balance between the two. Typically the lower tensioner is not used except for very fine adjustments. The tension wheel on this tensioner should always spin during sewing.

To tighten your tension (when the stitching on top looks "loopy" or very loose) turn the tension knobs clockwise. To loosen (when the thread is puckering the fabric or the bobbin thread is being pulled to the top side) turn the tensioner counter clockwise.

For machines with 15 needles:

There are two tensioners for the top thread:

the upper, and the lower (or rotary) tensioner.

Typically the lower tensioner is not used except for very minor adjustments. This leaves your upper tensioner as the primary point of adjustment.

To tighten your tension (when the stitching on top looks "loopy" or very loose) turn the tension knobs clockwise. To loosen (when the thread is puckering the fabric or the bobbin thread is being pulled to the top side) turn the tensioner counter clockwise.

<back to top>

How much bobbin should be showing on the back of the fabric?

There should be a ratio of approximately 2/3rds top thread to 1/3rd bobbin thread. This a general guideline, not an absolute law. The most important guide is the top side of the fabric. If it looks good, the tension most likely is fine.

<back to top>

How can I tell when my bobbin tension needs to be adjusted?

Sew out an 18 millimeter capital "I" character or use the sew test disk that is supplied with your machine. For accuracy, sew out the test on samples of the material that you will be embroidering. The sew test will also help determine whether there is a bobbin tensioning problem versus a top tensioning problem. If the bobbin thread is consistently too wide or too narrow on all the needles, there is a bobbin tension problem.  See figure1.

The top row of this sample shows proper well-balanced tension with the 2/3 top and 1/3 bobbin thread on all needles.

The middle row shows a problem with the bobbin thread tension because it is consistently too wide  from needle to needle.

The bottom row shows a problem with the top thread tension on a couple of needles.  The bobbin thread is inconsistent from needle to needle indicating that any adjustments should be made to the upper tensioners.

<back to top>

What do I do when the bobbin showing on the bottom is not centered?

This is usually caused when the sewing head’s positioning finger is not centered with the sewing hook. To correct, remove the throat plate, loosen the screw holding the positioning finger, and reposition the positioning finger left or right, depending on which way the bobbin is off. Ideally, the position finger should be centered with the needle.

<back to top>

How do I adjust the check spring?

To adjust the check spring, use a slotted screwdriver. Put the screwdriver into the end of the lower (or rotary) tension post. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until the check spring moves off its post. Then, turn the post clockwise until the check spring touches the post then approximately 1/4 turn more.

<back to top>

My machine is not detecting thread breaks, what do I do?

Thread break detection is done by the check spring. If the check spring is sitting against it’s post, then the machine assumes the thread is broken. If the machine consistently is not recognizing thread breaks on a particular needle, look at the check spring area. Be sure the spring can move freely. Clean the spring and the post to be sure it can make good electrical contact. You can also try loosening the check spring slightly. If the problem persists, or is occurring on more than one needle, you may have a different problem and need to contact technical service.

<back to top>

What is the best thread to use on my machine?

It is important to use a good quality thread. Poor quality thread will cause thread breaks and tension problems on your machine. What you may save in the cost of a cone of inexpensive thread can easily be lost due to machine stoppage.

There are generally two types of thread used in embroidery today: rayon and polyester.

Rayon thread is easy to tension, very shiny and generally runs well on the machine. It is not as strong as polyester, and care must be taken when laundering to prevent the colors from bleeding. It is probably the most common type of thread.

Polyester thread traditionally was difficult to embroider with, however today’s polyesters are as easy to sew as rayon and have other benefits. Polyester is strong meaning less thread breaks, and color fast, meaning it won’t fade or bleed.

<back to top>

What is the best needle to use?

In terms of needle size, this varies depending on the fabric and design. A good generic size needle would be a size 75/11 ball point.

When more delicate fabrics or more intricate designs are being sewn, a 70/10 needle should be used.

There are three types of needle points used for embroidery: normal point, ball point and sharp (or wedge) point.

Normal point needles are used on woven materials such as canvas, towels, and caps. Ball points are used on knit goods and delicate fabrics, such as knit shirts, socks and silk, to prevent runs or cutting of the fabric.

As far as brands of needles, be sure to use a good quality needle with a polished eye. Some manufacturers use a chemical process to remove burrs and to smooth the needle eye, but sometimes leave the harder, smaller burrs. The sewing thread passes through the eye of the needle up to 40 times before being laid down on the fabric. Any rough spot in the needle could have a dramatic effect on sewing performance. Most German brand needles have polished eyes.

<back to top>

How often should I change my needle?

There is no set schedule for changing needles. Applications for embroidery machines are very broad, making set time schedules for needle changing difficult. Also, sewing speeds on embroidery machines are relatively low compared to other sewing machines, reducing the need for routine changing. The best indication of when to change the needle is when its performance begins to fall off. A good rule of thumb - if a particular needle breaks threads more than once during a run, replace the needle.

<back to top>

What causes thread breaks/ frays?

While there is no single factor that can be identified that causes thread breaks, you can narrow down the root of the problem from by following these troubleshooting tips.

If the thread is breaking on just one needle, first check to see if the machine is threaded properly. Try loosening the tension slightly

Check the needle to be sure it is inserted properly. The needle eye should be facing straight forward. You may want to replace the needle with a new one.

Check the presser feet to be sure they or not nicked or burred, if one is, polish the guide with a mild abrasive cord like crocus cord until it is smooth

Check to see if the needle goes through the center of the foot. Presser feet are pliable and can be easily bent back in place with pliers.

Follow the thread path to be sure there are no rough spots on any of the thread guides.

Look at the thread clamp pin. Is it out to allow the thread to pass through the clamp for sewing?

Switch the needle to another position. Try to pull the problem needle down manually.

The needle should pull down easily and snap up quickly. If it does not, try cleaning and oiling the needle bar with a cotton swab.

If thread breakage continues, check the thread quality, try swapping cones of thread to a different needle that is working properly.

If the sewing problem is common to all needles, you need to look at conditions shared by all the needles such as the bobbin.

Is the bobbin threaded correctly? Is it tensioned properly?

Are there any rough spots on the bobbin case?

Look at the throat plate. Does it have any rough spots in or around the needle hole?

Is the needle centered in the needle hole?

Check the hook assembly. Rub the outer casing to feel for any burrs or nicks.

 If these tips have not helped to resolve the problem contact the Barudan technical service department for further assistance.

<back to top>

What causes birdnesting?

There are about three things that cause birdnesting: Unbalanced tension, flagging, or a problem with the hook assembly.

For tension problems, check the thread path to insure the machine is threaded properly and then sew a tension test such as a 18mm capital "I" test.

For flagging , be sure the fabric is framed tightly. Also, make sure there is not a significant gap between the hoop assembly and the sewing arm.

Third, if there is a problem with the hook assembly. Either the hook positioning finger is mounted too close to the hook basket, or the hook basket does not allow the sewing hook to spin freely.

<back to top>

My machine is skipping stitches or not picking up bobbin. Is the hook timing off?

Not necessarily. Hook timing is one of the last things to check when encountering a stitching problem. Other possibilities would be:

Improper threading, the bobbin is low or has run out, or a lack of oil on either the sewing hook or the needle bars

<back to top>

How often should I oil my sewing hook?

One small drop of clear sewing machine oil should be placed on the hook raceway every 4-8 hours of use. To achieve this, you may want to use a cotton swab dipped in oil to avoid over oiling.

<back to top>

How do I oil my machine?

Your machine has several oiling points that require lubrication at different frequencies. The oiling chart included in the manual of your machine gives detailed frequency of machine oiling.

<back to top>

How much oil do I put in the red holes?

Two to three drops of clear sewing machine oil.

<back to top>

How often should I oil my machine?

Your machine has several oiling points that require lubrication at different frequencies. The oiling chart included in the manual of your machine gives detailed frequency of machine oiling.

<back to top>

What regular maintenance should I do to my machine?

The main maintenance required on your machine is regular lubrication. Keeping your machine clean and lint free is also a very important maintenance issue. Beyond this there is no other regular maintenance required for you machine.

<back to top>

Should I shut the main breaker on the machine off at night?

It is recommended that you shut your machine off at the breaker if it is not going to be in use for an extended period of time to protect it from extreme electrical influences such as lightning.

<back to top>

My machine is giving an
      "Unexpected Fatal Error."
What is wrong? What should I do?

(BEAT 900 series only)

Typically this can be corrected by a simple "System Reset" To do a "System Reset":

Power off your machine, power back on, tap the Scroll Lock key until the Scroll Lock light comes on. The machine will boot up into the "Shell Menu". Select the option labeled "Update System", then "System Reset" and follow the prompts to reset the system.

<back to top>

Why is my machine telling me to call Barudan America? What should I do?

Your machine is installed with a time clock that prompts you to call and get a password to disable the clock after a certain time period. The message you see is a warning letting you know the time clock is about to expire. Once the time clock expires, you will not be able to sew with the machine until a password is accepted. When you see this prompt, call the number that is displayed and the technician can help you through this process.

<back to top>

I hit my hoop with the needle. Now what?

Many times, nothing other than a broken needle or bent presser foot results from hitting the hoop. If this happens, simply replace the needle, and straighten out the presser foot and continue. If sewing problems continue after this, more serious damage such as a broken needle bar driver may have occurred.

<back to top>

How do I figure out what model my machine is?

There is a "NAME PLATE" on every machine, which lists the model name, serial number, and power specifications. On single heads, it is located just underneath the table top fastened to the metal frame. On multi-headed machines, it is located on the metal frame near the center of the machine, right next to the BARUDAN name plate.

<back to top>

How can I tell when my machine was built?

On the name plate there is a serial number. For American built machines, the first two digits of the serial number represent the year the machine was manufactured. The last digit, if it is a letter, represents the month in which the machine was manufactured. The letters A-M are used (excluding I) to represent the months January through December respectively.

<back to top>