ID: KB01010 

Technique: Jackets- Embroidery placement & framing  

The information in this article applies to all Barudan embroidery machines

EMBROIDERY PLACEMENT- JACKET

Needle: #75/11 NP, (80/12NP for wool)
Backing:
        Denim: Tearaway, Solvy optional
        Satin/Nylon: Tearaway
        Windbreaker: 2 Tearaway, (criss crossed)
        Wool Varsity: Tearaway optional, Solvy optional

 

PLACEMENT CHART

POSITION MEN WOMEN CHILDREN
Left chest S,M,L 8” down from left shoulder and 4” right of the placket center 6.5” down from left shoulder and 3.5” right of the placket center 4”-6” down from left shoulder seam and 2.5”-3” over from center
XL & XXL 9” down from left shoulder and 4” right of center 7” down from left shoulder and 3.5” right of center
Jacket Back 10” down from center back collar seam 9”-10” down from center back collar seam 5”-7” down from center back collar seam

 

Use 6” long piece of masking tape along center back of jacket. as a straight guide when framing. Check straightness of garment when loading garment onto machine and during Perimeter trace. Pull tape off before sewing

 

SIZE CHART (left chest)

STYLE MEN WOMEN CHILDREN
Script Name 12.7mm-l6mm 12.7mm-16mm  10mm-12.7mm
Script Initials  16mm-l9mm  6mm-19mm  12.7-16mm
Block Name  12.7mm- 16mm   12.7mm- 16mm 10mm-12.7mm
Block Initials  16mm-19mm  16mm-19mm  12.7mm-16mm

*size chart settings are for left chest, jacket back sizes will be larger dependent on jacket size, frame size, etc...

 

HOW TO FRAME A JACKET

STEP 1

 Place frame onto hooping device. Loosen the frame thumbscrew slightly.

STEP 2

 Button or zipper close the jacket then lay garment flat, measure down and over using the placement chart. Mark center point of design with a pin. For jacket back use 6” piece of masking tape along center back of jacket. The tape acts as a straight guide while framing. Turn garment inside-out.

STEP 3

 If Tearaway is necessary select a piece of Tearaway large enough to cover entire frame.
Lightly spray one side with Adhesive spray. Press backing onto center of wrong side of
garment until fabric is laying flat.

STEP 4

 Turn fabric right side out, unbutton or unzip and slip over framing device. Place your pin/tape in the center of the frame. Make sure garment/ tape is straight before pressing frame insert into place. You may pull the garment from top to bottom and side to side to straighten grain and pull out excess puckered fabric inside the frame. Once fabric is taught, tighten the thumbscrew. Note: If Jacket is a Knit, use Cutaway and Adhesive. The garment must be taut without being over stretched. You normally never pull a knit garment from side to side, this would create a puckered effect. The exception is to straighten the grain only.

STEP 5

 Lift the frame out of the framing device. Handle garment by the outer edges of the frame, so as not to loosen the fabric tension of the framed garment. You’re ready to attach frame to the machine. If tape was used on jacket back check for straightness during Perimeter Trace. Remove tape prior to sewing.

STEP 6

 When the garment has completed sewing. Simply pull Tearaway backing away from stitching. If a knit was sewn you may trim the excess Cutaway or No-show backing, approximately 1/4” around the stitching. Do not trim backing between letters or designs, or the garment may loose shape. If solvy topping was used simply pull away from stitching. Small amounts of residual solvy will simply wash out after its first laundering.

 

Use a full piece of Tearaway or Cutaway backing instead of strips. The added strength of the full piece of backing with Adhesive spray will result in an overall better design with less distortion of lettering and designs.
  If added stability is needed on a woven jacket use two layers of Tearaway, and criss cross them. On knits use one Cutaway and one Tearaway backing. The tearaway will give additional strength while sewing but can be pulled away when completed.
  Wool varsity style jackets may require Solvy topping when larger satin stitch lettering are embroidered. The Solvy separates the wool from the stitching and gives a cleaner overall appearance.
For added clarity on multicolor designs with extreme detail you may wish to add an additional piece of Solvy after a thread trim.
  Cutaway backing is recommended on most knit fabrics, but when this is not possible, the use of two Tearaway criss crossed will give added strength. Pull one layer away at a time.
 

If holes appear in the garment around the edges of the design check for:
 - Too high of a density for the size sewn?
 - Was the smallest frame size used?
 - Was the correct backing and adhesive used?
 - Use a smaller size needle. Ex. If a 75/11NP was used try a70/10NP instead.

 

Additional query words:

Keywords : jackets framing placement 
Issue type : kbtechniques
Technology : sewing
Updated: 10/27/2006